From the Anandabazar Patrika of Kolkata
Of Saree Taverns and Fairytales
by
Ranjan Bandopadhyay
[translated by Jhinuk Chowdhury from the original version in Bengali.]
There is a tavern in Kathmandu, Nepal, named "Banccharam." The surprising thing about this cocktail lounge is that nowhere is there a bottle of alcoholic beverage in sight. "Aristocratic Nepalese etiquette and traditions forbid the display of liquor bottles," advised the saloonkeeper. Stepping into Banarasi Kuthi reminded me of that tavern.

"We do not believe in displaying and flaunting our sarees. That just causes damage to them. In our store, most of the sarees are cloistered in special containers. Just let us know what kind of saree you want. We will show you a multitude, one after another. How many would you like to see? Our inventory will impress you, trust me," said Manab Bhattacharya, one of the four managing partners of Banarasi Kuthi. The three other partners are his brothers -- Narendra, Ramendra, and Rabindra. Banarasi Kuthi was established by the Late Rajendra Bhattacharya. His four sons now hold the reins of this establishment, along with its rich traditions and reputation. "We have another retail store across from Triangular Park on Rashbehari Avenue," said Rabindra.

The distinctive freshness and vitality of Banarasi Kuthi on 208/6 Rashbehari Avenue, stems precisely from its allegiance to the vintage and the classic. The common factors across most other saree stores of Kolkata, however, are dazzling showcases and overly opulent displays. Show all! Dazzle the viewer! Keep nothing hidden! These are the shibboleths of contemporary saree retailers. "We try to adhere to the very traditional methodologies of saree retailing. Classical rules of conduct are neither the most expeditious nor are they instantly gratifying. But, those who have visited us once at Banarasi Kuthi will surely know 'Old is Gold'," suggested Manab. Then, as an afterthought, he added, "For bridal Banarsis and wedding sarees, Bengalis have forever preferred the traditional and the classical. And for such kinds of sarees, they will keep coming back to Banarasi Kuthi.

Watch this! See what a traditional Banarasi saree in Zari* looks like." Manab brought out what looked like a box containing a large scroll. From it, emerged an saree of awesome splendor. Priced at Twenty Five Thousand Rupees!

The inner sanctums of Banarasi Kuthi are like from a mediaeval fairy-tale. Emerging from under the cover of dull containers were these pure and kaleidoscopic hues of truly elitist sarees. What kind of magic lies hidden in the next container? It was as if each one of those containers kept hidden an enticing and teasing charm of its own. Right before our eyes, we saw the unfurling of jewel-like Jamebars, Kimkhabs in gold threads, the beauty of Baluchari designs on shimmering silk matrix, the purest of Koras and raw silks, wanton Walkalams, breathtaking Bomkais, the glory of Gadowals, inimitable Ikkats, and brilliant Balucharis.

How does one find a way to end a description of something that is seemingly endless? From Varanasi to Kumbhakonam, Mubarakpur to Kanchipuram and Pochampalli, Putapakka, Chouthappal, Mysore -- all roads have found a confluence in the mysterious containers of Banarasi Kuthi. There are many kinds of enticement hidden in those containers in the treasure chests of Banarasi Kuthi. "Do you know what I think when I see all these sarees?" asked Sanchita. "I wish there was a wedding somewhere every day, to celebrate each one of these sarees," she exclaimed. "See, how beautiful this one is!"


* Threads dipped in gold, silver and other lustrous metals; or material woven from such thread.

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